One important aspect of keeping tropical fish is aquarium lighting. This is an often overlooked area that can sometimes be confusing for a beginner to aquariums. The confusion may come from the many available types of fish tank lighting that you can use to light your tank. The main types of light are:

• Regular fluorescent lights,
• Compact flourescent,
• High output (ho) flourescent,
• Very high output (vho) flourescent
• Metal halide
• LED - Light Emitting Diodes

The type of light you need for your tank really depends on what you plan on keeping in your tank. This article is a very general introduction into aquarium lighting and below we discuss the various types of lighting needs based on aquarium type. These are general recommendations and we encourage you to research your livestock's lighting requirements for best results.

Aquarium Light Types

Regular Flourescent Light

These are the type of lights that come with most starter tanks and are very affordable. They typically range from 15 to 40 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 3,000 to 10,000. Kelvin is the scale used to measure the color temperature. They are very cheap to run and replace.

Compact Flourescent Light Bulb

These are a step up from the regular flourescent lights. They typically range from 10 to 100 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 5,000 to 10,000. They offer really bright and intense light but they do put off some heat that may raise the tank water temperature. Running power compact lights will require special hoods and because of the heat produced, they often come with installed fans in the hood.

High Output (HO) Flourescent Light

HO flourescent lights typically range from 20-60 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 6,000 to 11,000 They are more expensive than regular flourescents and usually last longer. These lights require a T5 light fixture.

Very High Output (VHO) Flourescent Light

VHO flourescent lights typically range from 75-60 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 10,000 to 20,000. These lights are very expensive and produce a lot of heat. They require a ballast and/or special fixture especially for VHO lights. They have fans incorporated into the lighting unit to help keep the lights and aquarium cool. Even though they come with fans you may need to equip your tank with an aquarium chiller to prevent your tank water from overheating.

Metal Halide Light Bulb

Metal Halide lamps typically range from 175-1000 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 5,000 to 20,000. This type of light is closest to the sun in terms of luminousity but they are very expensive to buy, operate and replace. They produce a lot of heat and usually must be fan cooled. Ballasts with fan units included are widely available. This is often the preferred method of lighting a reef tank setup with anemones and corals that need higher intensity lighting.

LED Aquarium Lights

Is this what we have in store for the future of aquarium lighting systems? Prices as of 2007 are still very high and they will need to drop significantly in price before more hobbyists will transition to them. They offer many advantages over previously mentioned lights. Some of the advantages of LED lights over convential flourescents and metal halides include:

LED lights run much cooler than standard flourescents and metal halides
LED lights consume less energy than the other lights
They have a much longer life span
There is no filament to break, so they could be considered more durable
They can be configured in many ways due to their small size.
Many of the light fixtures being sold now include moon lights which are LEDs. So we're starting to see them more often, but even though these LED's are very promising we are probably still a few years away from using them as the primary light source on most home aquariums.

Freshwater Aquarium Light - Fish Only
For a freshwater tank with no live plants you can get by with the low watt flourescent lights. These lights are typically between 18 and 40 watts and should last for a year or longer before they burn out.

Freshwater Aquarium Plant Lighting

Live plant keepers will need to upgrade their lighting system. The light type you need depends on several factors:
Depth of the tank
Plant species you plan on keeping
Growth rate desired Typically, plant keepers try to provide anywhere from 2-5 watts per aquarium gallon. Research the plants you want to keep beforehand to determine if you can provide the light needed.

Saltwater Aquarium Light - Fish Only

Fish only saltwater tanks will work fine with regular flourescent bulbs. Try to get a "full spectrum" light for your tank.
While tanks with live rock can get by with regular flourescent full spectrum lights they will do better with flourescents and actinic lights (blue light). It really depends on how well you want the coralline algae to grow. Certain types of coralline algae seems to grow better with higher amounts of actinic lighting.

Saltwater Reef Aquarium Light

Saltwater reef tanks with corals, clams and other light needing organisms will need the high output, very high output flourescent or metal halide lamps. Certain corals, anemones and clams require very intense lighting levels that can only be provided with VHO and metal halide light sources. A general rule of thumb for reef tanks is between 4 and 10 watts per aquarium gallon. Many reefers have lighting systems incorporating metal halides and VHO flourescent tubes. Research the species you want to keep because light requirements can vary. Because of the amount of heat these light units can produce, you may need to get an aquarium chiller to keep your tank water temperature in an acceptable range. The expense of lighting a reef tank may be just as high or higher than the cost of the live rock.
Photo Period - How long do you leave the lights on?
How long should the fish tank lights stay on for? We get this question frequently. A good range to aim for would be anywhere from 6 to 12 hours. Remember that fish like and need to rest just like other animals. Fish only setups could range from 6 to 12 hours, reef tank setups and freshwater planted aquariums could range from 10 to 12 hour photo periods. Leaving the lights on for longer time periods could contribute to nuisance algae growth (just one of the factors with algae growth), higher tank temperatures and quicker tank water evaporation. Be consistent and if you can afford it, invest in a light timer.

Aquarium Light Timer

You may also want to get an aquarium light timer. A light timer can help make running an aquarium that much more enjoyable because it's one less thing you have to mess with. Most higher end fish tank hoods and fixtures have multiple power cords that are tied into the multiple light sockets within the hood. This allows you to setup your timer to turn on the various lights at different times.
For instance, a popular hood nowadays is the compact flourescent hood incorporating an actinic bulb, a full spectrum bulb and a moon light. You could set up the timer to turn on the actinic bulb to go on first and stay on for 12 hours, then have the full spectrum bulb come on an hour or so later and stay on for 10 hours. This could simulate dawn and dusk by having the actinic bulbs come on an hour early and stay on an hour later. Finally, you could have the moon lights turn on when the actinics turn off. Who knows, you may even start to see breeding behavior in certain species that may be more in tune with the light of the moon in this type of setup. Another side benefit of using a moon light is the super cool effect it creates in the aquarium when all the other lights in the room are off.

Conclusion

As you can see, the type of light you need really depends on they type of tank your running. Freshwater and Saltwater fish only tanks can usually get by with the regular flourescent lights whereas the freshwater plant keepers and saltwater reef tank keepers will need to invest in better light sources.

A protein skimmer, also sometimes referred to as a foam fractionator, is a piece of aquarium equipment that is primarily used in saltwater aquariums in order to remove dissolved organic compounds (DOC) and other harmful substances that if not removed can breakdown in the aquarium or filter adding to the biological load on an aquarium.  Protein skimmers remove these hydrophilic substances completely from the water using air bubbles that are collected in a collection cup. As air and water are mixed in the skimmer chamber the bubbles rise and take with them the dissolved organics that are attracted to the bubble surface. When the bubbles with the proteins, amino acids and other nasty stuff bubble up the tube into the collection cup they are completely removed from the aquarium. Unlike a mechanical filter that just traps solids but still exposes them to the aquarium as the water continues to flow over them all the while these solids are breaking down and adding to the total bio-load on a tank. Skimmers could possibly be consider one of the most significant advances for the saltwater hobbyist.

Think about the ocean for a minute. You know how as the waves crash on shore you will sometimes notice sea foam? This is similar to the way protein skimmers function. Air is mixed with water and then the dirty bubbles (foam) are placed on shore, only with a protein skimmer this foam is removed from the system via the collection cup.

Skimmer Benefits

• Skimmers increase the dissolve oxygen levels and redox potential in an aquarium
• They remove dissolved organics before they get a chance to breakdown and become a food source for nuisance algae
• By removing dissolved organics the aquarium water clarity does not age or yellow as quickly since the DOC buildup is less allowing light to penetrate deeper into the tank for the benefit of corals and other inverts.
• Can help lead to a more stable pH since less dissolved organics are in the system.
• Overall improvement in the health and vigor of the animals in the aquarium since their wastes are being removed from the system via the collection cup.

Do I really need to a protein skimmer?

One of the first questions new saltwater hobbyists seem to ask is whether they really need a protein skimmer for their first setup. Especially when they start to shop for a skimmer. The short answer is no, you don't have to run a protein skimmer on your setup. There are many hobbyists that run successful systems without them. However, these hobbyists also realize the importance of regular partial water changes for the aquarium and how important water changes are to the health and well being of the animals in their care.

By not running a skimmer you really do need to stay on top of those water changes. Otherwise you will start to see nuisance algae growths cropping up all over the place, especially if you have high output lighting like metal halides, T5's or VHO flourescents. The initial expense of getting a good protein skimmer is justified in the peace of mind it gives the hobbyist and the overall water quality improvement it can provide. I'm telling ya, once you see and smell your first collection cup full of gunk that is removed from your aquarium you will be hooked on skimmers. The way most systems are stocked nowadays (rarely are they under stocked) skimmers should be pulling out at least a cup full of skimmate from the system daily. Do you really want that amount of dissolved organics accumulating in your tank in between water changes? Me neither.

Running a system without a skimmer and without live rock would seem to be someone that is just trying to A) set themselves up for failure or B) they like bashing their heads against walls. If you're planning on a system without live rock and no protein skimmer I would simply ask, why? Make the system as easy to maintain as possible and chances are you will be able to enjoy it more.

Skimmer Types

Really? You want to cover this? Ok, if you say so. If your mind starts to glaze over mid-read, you've been warned. Basically, the object here is to find the best way to create lots of tiny bubbles and to provide the optimal contact time with the organics so they can attach to the bubbles and then rise as a foam into the collection cup. The body style of the skimmer can be an important design consideration when utilizing any of the methods of creating bubbles. Here are a few ways to make bubbles:
Co-current skimmers: These were some of the first used and they had an air stone at the bottom of the chamber providing the air bubbles. The air bubbles rose vertically and were collected into a cup. Actually, these skimmers even today are good skimmers. The wooden air stones (finer bubbles) just have to be replaced regularly.

Counter Current skimmers: The air/water mixture is forced through a counter-current of aquarium water in the body of the skimmer. This is supposed to give a longer contact time for the bubbles to attract the organics.
Venturi skimmers: These use a venturi valve to mix in air with the water. These valves are usually situated on the intake tube coming into the skimmer.
Needle Wheel Skimmers: These use a spoked wheel that spins and chops up the incoming water producing fine bubbles. There are also mesh wheel skimmers that function in a similar way.
Spray Induction: As the aquarium water comes into the skimmer it is forced through a spray nozzle that creates a lot of tiny bubbles.
Downdraft and Beckett: These skimmer types use proprietary parts to mix the air and water to create the glorious bubbles we love. Some of the larger protein skimmers are these types of skimmers.
Knowing how a skimmer creates it's bubbles could be a consideration for the hobbyist. Some are more popular than others. It really comes down to doing your research, just like everything else in this hobby. Are you going to pick a skimmer just because it's a downdraft skimmer? Of course not. You are going to come to a decision based on reviews from other hobbyists or first Hand experience with a unit.
Skimmer Maintenance
When shopping for a protein skimmer it is very important to include in your decision making the methods and ease of maintenance on the product before buying one.

• How easy is it to empty and clean the collection cup? This is a daily task and collection cup design is a very important factor.
• How easy is it to get into the skimmer with your arm for scrubbing the walls? You won't be cleaning the walls except maybe every 6 months to annually.
• How easy is it to clean the bubble creation device? Can you easily get to it with a small bottle brush?

Cleaning the collection cup should be done daily for optimum performance. As residue builds up on the neck of the cup it can impede the rising of the foam and ultimately the amount of gunk that you remove from the system.
Skimmers can be a valuable asset for your saltwater aquarium. They can help create a more stable environment for your animals and a healthier one too. If you just can't afford a decent protein skimmer you should honestly rethink the whole saltwater thing, at least for now. Especially for a beginner to the hobby our goal here is to make sure you have all the tools you need to succeed while having fun. Save up enough money until you can afford one a later date. You will be glad you did.
One last thing, skimmers are very expensive and the old saying that "you get what you pay for" certainly has some merit with skimmers. Trying to go the inexpensive route will often end up costing you more in the long run. I've been there and done that. Don't waste your money on a cheap skimmer. This piece of aquarium equipment is just too important. Get a good one from the start after researching them thoroughly.

A) Open System Design 

• Turn over through the open system should be approximately four times per hour. Therefore, the pump should be rated for this turn over at the given head loss for the aquarium application.
• The system requires an atmospheric reservoir of approximately 10% the volume of the main aquarium (the more volume available, the better). Within the open reservoir pre-filtration, typically micron polyester bag filters are used.
• On marine systems, an open system includes a protein skimmer rated for the volume and load of the aquarium in question. The skimmer should have the capacity to handle at least 100% of the volume of the aquarium once per hour.
• The open system typically utilizes a fluidized bed filter and/or a bio/de-gassing tower with a sufficient quantity of bio-balls for gaseous exchange and biological oxidation/reduction.

• Turn over through the closed system is approximately 4 times per hour
• The closed system provides additional circulation.
• Additional mechanical filtration is achieved using a canister filter or other high capacity mechanical filter.
• Additional chemical filtration is provided by a carbon canister filter.
• A side stream is directed to the aquarium chilling system to maintain a constant temperature.
• Water from the closed system may be used to supply an Ultra-Violet Sterilizer for additional filtration.                                    
  

Aquarium Design India will:

• Provide courteous, on-time installation by professional installers, licensed and insured as required by law, and trained to meet our tight standards.
• Take the utmost care of your home during the installation process, including wearing shoe covers and protecting your floors.
• Complete a pre-installation site survey upon arrival at your home to ensure the success of the installation.
• Install and secure your new aquarium structure.
• Check for proper operation.
• Clean up the work area, including removal of packaging and installation-related debris.
• Provide you with a Basic Aquarium Care manual and fish portfolio, personalized to the installed system.
• Provide a certificate of professional installation warranty for one year.

Reproduce river and reef currents to create a natural, realistic aquarium environment.

Wave Makers provide custom water movement in freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Proper water movement is important for promoting gas exchange, supplementing filtration and providing physical and mental activity for aquarium inhabitants. These wave makers instantly create turbulent flow patterns with adjustable alternating cycle times from 10 seconds to 6 minutes. Recreating water movement is essential to the health and long-term success of your corals, invertebrates, filter feeders, and fish.               Reproduce river and reef current to creat a natural realistic is esessential to the health and long-term sucess of your fish tank  

The growth of corals' skeletons and invertebrates' shells is dependent on maintaining calcium levels in the saltwater aquarium.

Calcium reactors are used in the marine reef aquarium to keep calcium levels and alkalinity high enough for the health of corals. In addition to stony corals, many other invertebrates require readily available calcium carbonate in order to grow their shells. Calcium reactors also promote the growth of desirable coraline algae. Most aquarists shoot for their calcium levels to be in the of 400-450 ppm range with an alkalinity somewhere between 8-12 dKH. A properly functioning calcium reactor can automate the process of keeping calcium and alkalinity levels within these parameters.
Calcification, as the name implies, requires sufficient amounts of calcium in the water column. A calcium reactor achieves this by dissolving calcium carbonate media in a reaction chamber, supplying the system with calcium and carbonate. To dissolve the calcium carbonate, carbon dioxide is added to the water in the reactor. The carbon dioxide lowers the pH of the water in the reactor causing it to be more acidic. This more acidic water then dissolves the calcium carbonate and other minerals and trace elements. The dissolved solution then flows back into the system, increasing alkalinity.
Using a calcium reactor to maintain healthy calcium levels in the reef tank is relatively inexpensive when compared to other means of increasing calcium (consistent use of calcium buffers or supplements such as Kalkwasser). Yes, there is an initial large investment in the reactor itself (as well as the carbon dioxide bottle and regulator), but after that, most calcium reactors are relatively maintenance free. The aquarist simply needs to keep the carbon dioxide bottle filled and replace the calcareous media.
When using a calcium reactor, it is necessary to closely monitor the pH level in your aquarium. Some aquarists use a controller that will shut off the flow of carbon dioxide if the pH falls too drastically in the tank. The controller can also turn the carbon dioxide flow back on when the pH levels have rebounded.

Within the aquarium, fish and uneaten food produce waste which breaks down to form AMMONIA (NH4). Aerobic bacteria within the filtration system of the tank then oxidise the ammonia first to NITRITE (NO2) and then further to NITRATE (NO3). This series of processes is continuous and ultimately leads to a build up of nitrate in the aquarium which can only be reduced without a nitrate filter by either large regular water changes, heavy aquatic planting or by a reductive process whereby the oxygen from the nitrate molecules is utilised by anaerobic bacteria to convert it to NITROGEN GAS (N2).
The natural reduction of nitrate to nitrogen gas will only occur if there is an area within your system with a very low oxygen level that will allow anaerobic bacteria to exist in sufficient quantities to handle the waste that is being produced by your tank's inhabitants, such as within live rock or in a deep sand bed. Where this does not exist it is necessary to create such an environment and this is where the ADI denitrification reactors come in to play.
ADI Reactors offer a large surface area on which millions of anaerobic bacteria can colonise, a system of recirculation of the water to ensure that the nitrate is easily available to all of the bacteria and a way of introducing a carbon based food, (alcohol) to feed the bacteria which allows them to multiply and to remove the nitrate from the water column.

Simple and reliable way to add kalkwasser to your aquarium.Kalkwasser might be old-school but these uniquely "revolutionary" stirrers bring the legendary calcium and alkalinity solution into the new millennium.It would not be overstating things to say that kalkwasser has enormous benefits for captive reef aquariums.
 
Kalkwasser powder is an excellent source of calcium, hydroxide ions to buffer alkalinity, an unmatched ability to encourage coralline algae growth, and it precipitates phosphates out of your system water! Why in the world then wouldn't we all be using it? Primarily it is the mess and hassle of preparing it in small batches, for use as top-off water, which eventually becomes disheartening.
The new Kalkwasser Stirrer delivers the freshest possible kalkwasser solution, on-demand, in line with your automated top off system, like the ADI Niveaumat. And it does this for up to two weeks with no mess, no hassles, and no problems.
The gentle stirring action is perfectly designed to mix incoming top-off water directly into the gently spinning slurry of undissolved Kalkwasser powder at the bottom of the Kalkwasser Stirrerr "action chamber.Above the slurry, the top-off water rises into a fresh, clear volume of saturated kalkwasser solution where it is pulled, as needed, into your reef tank.Now there is no excuse not to take advantage of all the benefits that come with dosing kalkwasser.
The Kalkwasser Stirrer is a must have and partners beautifully with an ADI Calcium reactor to deliver extraordinary results in even the most demanding SPS coral displays.

The presence of algae is a normal part of keeping an aquarium. However, aggressive algae growth is a good indication that your system is out of balance. Excess nutrients, including phosphate, trigger aggressive algae growth. The PhosBan Reacter maximizes chemical filtration utilizing the up-flow principle to gently fluidize the chemical filter media. Even distribution of water through the reactor increases surface area contact, achieving the most efficient use of PhosBan or other chemical filter media.
Chemical media are most effective when paired with proper husbandry. Use them as an effective prevention, rather than a remedy. Once algae is to reach nuisance proportions, it becomes much more difficult to control. A bit of prevention goes a long way.

Maintain Balance

Every time we feed our fish, we introduce nutrients into the system. Regular water changes help remove and dilute high concentrations of nutrients such as phosphate that feed algae. Phosphate is also present in some source water. When nutrient levels are too high, aggressive water changes would be stressful to aquarium inhabitants, thus we need help from other methods to further remove excess nutrients. This is where Filter Media such as PhosBan, play an important role.

Ban Phosphate

PhosBan safely keeps phosphate levels low in freshwater and saltwater (including reef) aquariums for several months. This super adsorbent media effectively binds large amounts of phosphate, organic compounds, and other pollutants. This prevents algae from using these nutrients and helps control outbreaks. PhosBan will not leach material even when fully saturated.

Chillers allow effective management of aquarium water temperature.
Aquariums that employ high output light fixtures or house temperature-sensitive
inhabitants such as corals will benefit greatly from aquarium water chillers.
* Digital chiller control keeps aquarium water within 3F of set temperature
* Easy-to-use aquarium water chiller with adjustable in/outlet connections
* Titanium heat exchanger resists corrosion in harsh aquarium conditions
you have probably heard of aquarium heaters already; equipment that will heat up the water and make it possible to house species that require a higher water temperature than the air surrounding the aquarium. An aquarium chiller does just the opposite; it chills the water and makes it possible to keep species that need a lower water temperature.
To make it possible for you to set the optimum temperature for your particular aquarium, the aquarium chiller is equipped with a thermostat control unit - just like a heater. When shopping for a chiller, there is more than one solution to choose among. A single-stage controller will control only the chiller, while a dual-stage controller will control a chiller AND a heater. It might sound strange, but in many situations you may need to use a chiller as well as a heater to keep the correct water temperature in the aquarium and a dual-stage controller will help minimize variance and eliminate conflicts between the two.

You need an aquarium chiller when the ambient room temperature is higher than the desired water temperature. This can be due to many reasons, such as:

• You wish to keep cold water species indoor and decreasing your indoor temperature low enough is not an option.
• You live in an area subjected to seasonal heat-spells that increase room temperature and wreck sudden havoc in your aquarium.
• You live in a warm part of the world and decreasing your indoor temperature low enough is not an option.
• You have installed heat emitting equipment that increase the water temperature, e.g. pumps and lights Many people think that aquarium chillers are only necessary if you wish to keep species from temperate or arctic parts of the world, but this is very far from the truth. A subtropical species used to a water temperature of 18-25C can for instance suffer if a sudden heat spell turns the air temperature in your house up to 30C. Also keep in mind that the water temperature tends to drop sharply with depth and deep-water species can therefore require really chill water even if they hail from the tropics.
• A common mistake is to unplug the aquarium heater when a chiller is used. This is usually not a good idea, because an unplugged heater can cause the temperature to drop too far, e.g. if the weather suddenly changes or if you live in a part of the world where the days are hot and the nights cooler. A properly working heater with a thermostat will shut off as soon as the water has become warm enough and it can therefore be used together with a chiller. 
• The chiller itself will actually emit quite a lot of heat. It is therefore not a good idea to enclose the chiller or place it inside aquarium furniture unless the furniture is very well ventilated.
• When choosing between two chillers, go for the more powerful one. You will usually get more bang for your buck by purchasing a really powerful chiller. Even weak chillers tend to be quite expensive, and the price does not increase proportionally to capacity as you upgrade to a more powerful piece. By getting a chiller that is more powerful than the minimum recommendation for your aquarium, you will normally end up with a chiller that lasts much longer before it has to be replaced than a weaker chiller would.